Hot, sultry summer Sunday and the stink
of the Bogalusa sulfite paper mill all over everything.
After a while you got not to notice it anymore,
like heavy traffic or a freight train going
by every twenty minutes. Rain every day at
two o’clock and nothing ever dried out.
The kudzu vines grew so fast you closed your
windows at night to keep them out of the house.
Boards
up on sawhorses groaning under the weight of
the church-picnic laid on by the good women
of the Greater Ebenezer Missionary Baptist
Church. Pan-fried chicken with milk gravy,
deep-fried catfish with black-eyed peas and
greens, corn bread slathered with butter, cloud-light
biscuits, cool buttermilk and ice tea. More
food than you could shake a stick at. I ate
till I was ready to burst. The next day the
FBI grabbed us two Congress of Racial Equality
white boys and hustled us off to New Orleans
and put us on a plane home because they were
pretty sure we were in line to get killed by
the Klan.
The civil rights movement introduced
me to Southern cooking. Ten years later I bought
an ice cream suit and went back to The Big
Easy for the Jazz Festival and more food. “Best
red beans and rice in Louisiana,” said
the hand-lettered screen door sign. Well if
it wasn’t I don’t know where the
best was. I ate sugary beignet with rich chicory
coffee drowned in steamed milk, boudon blanc
with ham hocks and greens, gumbos and jambalayas
that would raise up a dead man. I parked myself
at the Desire Oyster Bar where, watched attentively
by the shucker over his deep-worn marble counter,
I ate oysters plain, ate oysters with Tabasco
sauce, ate oysters with lemon wedges. and ate
oysters with sauce mignonett until I could
eat no more oysters. I got up early and I retired
late in order to eat as much of New Orleans’ food
as I could eat.
That generation-gone New Orleans
was washed clean away by Hurricane Katrina’s
wind and water. But there’s another New
Orleans coming. New Orleans is dead, long live
New Orleans! Laissez les bons temps rouler!